The Pantry & Pub

It's all too easy to fall back on old favorites. This holds true for establishments and for dishes. I can't count on all my fingers the times that I have gone to the same restaurant and ordered the same meal. Call me lazy, call me a creature of habit, call me fixated, but when I find something I enjoy, I tend to give in to the desires of my taste buds, salivating for that familiar flavor. Unfortunately, this disposition precludes discovery.

The past two days have been a real treat, then.

First, Tuesday night saw the trial of a new local brewpub, Falling Sky. To J's review below I will only add two things:

First, I second J's conclusion that the "Back Alley Burger," sculpted from the grass-fed beef that I have been dying to try, falls near, if not at the very top of, the list of best hamburgers ever (many thanks to J for parting with the bite he allowed me to sample).

And, second, that I never, NEVER, order chicken (because, let's be honest, chicken is the Bud Light of meats), but not only did the smoked chicken thigh, collard greens, and some corn dish of which I forget the name intrigue me enough to order it, it also made me question my devotion to other meats and do something else I never, NEVER, do: eat the chicken skin.

Then, came lunch on Wednesday.

I finally made it to an establishment that I have been meaning to patronize ever since it opened several years back: The Pantry & Pub.

Open for breakfast, lunch (which it serves all day), and dinner, it features various specials, such as $.99 taco Tuesdays and "burger and brew" specials. The latter are significant because of the numerous burger options, of which there are 15+, and which only multiply when one begins factoring in substitutions such as chicken, salmon, tempeh, and gardenburger for the optional 1/3 pound or 1/2 pound beef patties.

Being as I had just experienced the "Back Alley Burger," I decided to limit myself to the sandwich and panini menu.

My eyes immediately fell on the Philly.

Now, understand, I'm such a devotee of the Philly cheese steak sandwich, that I have often fantasized about going on an all Philly tasting spree of all the establishments in Eugene offering such a delicacy, so it took a lot to pry my eyes from that offering. Just above it on the menu, however, was "The Cattleman," which boasted roast beef, caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms, and horseradish. Very similar to a Philly, but different enough to be interesting.

My conclusion upon sinking my teeth into this delicacy: The Philly may have a new rival with which to contend.

On top of the delicious food, The Pantry & Pub offers a decent selection of beers on tap and a large selection of bottled beer and cider, including all three flagship ciders from 2 Towns Ciderhouse.

The interior maintains a spacious layout, despite its rather small size and includes two separate bar areas in addition to booth and table seating.

I look forward to returning to sample the breakfast and dinner menus in addition to further exploring the lunch menu.

I Heart PCNW: Backyard Brewers to Back-Alley Delicatessen (Eugene, OR)

A and I gave ourselves to the brewgods at a ripe young age. When we started to brew together we both had just started college and there was only one shop in town: Valley Vitner and Homebrewing. They had the knowhow and materials to turn your fermenting fantasy into bottled reality.

While the store is still A and I's brewshop of choice, they may have further monopolized our free-time with the Falling Sky Public House which was started by the brewshop to showcase their years of dedication to Oregon's intoxicating crop.

The atmosphere is amazing from the moment you walk in. This isn't a black-tie affair and there are no pretensions of gormet in the modest two-page menu. But, after you've ordered at the counter and the meal arrives, you can't bring yourself to call it just another burger stand.

Right now, I can say without a doubt that I would commit various criminal acts to get another taste of their "Back Alley Burger" with cheese and forest mushrooms. I took me until the end of the burger to realize they hadn't added ketchup and I really didn't care. Better yet, I looked around me and realized I'd found Oregon's best burger in a garage off 13th avenue. Looking at the menu, I realized that the burger's deliciousness was second only to its customization. I added cheese and mushrooms, but bacon, carmelized onions, and a fried egg are also options. A and I have already set the date for trying this alchemist's concoction of flavors (one that I'm naming the "Trash Can Burger").

I wish I could have rounded off my experience by sampling a beer, but the fledgling brewery (just on the other side of a glass partition from the restaurant) would not be able to serve their own draughts until mid-March.

Either way, the selection was great, I got to leave with one of the brewery's growlers (given it was filled with Ft. George's IPA), I had the memory of the Back Alley Burger resting gently on my palate, and my pints were 25 cents cheaper.

That's right, a quarter off the beer. Why? Because it was raining of course. At Falling Sky, there's every reason to love your Pacific Northwest.

Fresh-Eyed Daisy or Black-Eyed Susan? (Widmer Pitch Black IPA)

My last foray into the brave new world of Black IPAs was 21st Amendment's less than stellar Back in Black. However, the idea of darkening IPAs has intrigued me since that San Francisco beer crossed my path at this year's KLCC brewfest. There have been too many times I've had my brains hopped out without even a kiss of flavor and it always seems as if it's the bed of barley that's missed in the passionate rush to get straight to the flavor.

So, when I found the Widmer Bros. had attempted a simmilar beer, I had to know how a solid Oregon brewery does the dirty (ehrm...IPA that is).

Let's just say that I heart the Pacific Nortwest (and un-heart California) for a reason. The Widmer Pitch Black IPA reminds me a lot of their Broken Halo IPA in terms of aroma and hop taste. What sends me over the moon for this beer is the rich malt flavor that balances out a definite increase in hoppage. The malts in this beer give the smooth flavor (a la New Belgium's 1554) that makes me feel like I'm drinking a good porter, but finishes with the gorgeous fireworks only the best IPAs can deliver.

In short: Black IPAs have found a standard. I look forward to see if this stays a limited release or a Widmer mainstay.

Apologies to A, I meant to save him some so he could share in the review. Whoops.

Brewery of the Month: Ninkasi Brewery (Eugene, OR)

Generally, if there isn't a "Brewery of the Month" listed it's because it need not be. If you live in the Willamette Valley (soon this next statement will apply to the entire Pacific Northwest) and you have yet to "worship the goddess," then you are most likely on the list to run out of this beautiful state into some god awful bastion of all things soulless and vile (i.e.: California).

That said, even your most faithful brews find a new way to kick veritable upper-thighs every once in awhile. Ninkasi, has done just that this summer.

It was obvious from the first time I sipped Tricerahops and Total Domination from tasters at local brewfests that Ninkasi was a brewery to follow in the grand success of other great Oregonian institutions (such as Rogue, McMenamins, etc.), but generally their beer was only found off the tap or in 22 oz bottles. The first thing I noticed during my weekly supply run was a nifty new 4 pack of Ninkasi 22s, containing all the staples a hop-addict, such as myself and A, needed: Total Domination IPA, Tricerahops Double IPA, Believer Double Red, and a Spring Reign to help gently croon to our traumatized palates until they found dreams of barley and worts boiling.

The mindblower was 6 packs of 12 oz bottles, below that 12 packs, then, just to make sure we're paying attention, Ninkasi released a new 4 pack of 22s. This one including the more obscure bursts of brilliance such as: Nuptuale (Cream Ale), Maiden the Shade (a summer ale with 7 hops used in the making), Radiant Ale, and Total Domination (lest ye forget who the boss is 'round these parts).

In short, I walked down the aisle to find myself a new adult soda to sip on during the evening. Instead I walked into the local city beer county to see Ninkasi owned these parts now.

To help further the love I already had for these brews, the Ninkasi 4 packs now hold a small code that allows worshippers to download a cd full of local Oregon music acts.

Who doesn't love the hometown hero who makes it big carrying fellow heroes (unsung though the may be) on its back? For this, our default greatest brewery deserved a few words.

I Heart PCNW: Brasserie Montmartre (Portland, OR)

On occasion, one of the best things that can ever happen to you in a lazy day of city traveling is to realize you have no idea where you're at. As A and I wandered away from the Portland Art Museum in search of food, we had a vague idea how far we were from the Arlene Schnitzer Concert hall, we knew we had at least 3 hours until A Perfect Circle took the stage, but we had no idea where the vittles be.

By the time we reached we reached Park and Morrison it had been 45 minutes of wandering for a place that served both beer and food. The Brasserie Montmarte Bisro was literally the first suitable place we had found. Wandering up to the door we saw two live musicians playing quiet pieces that gave the entire place the Paris away from Paris feel many bistro's attempt.

Seated with menus we'd planned on just buying a hamburger (the first recognizable food we saw on the menu), a beer, and wandering off. Instead, the waiter sold me on a ribeye grilled with fresh mushrooms and "pomme frites" (the house special that day) while A took an old fashioned steak, but took the waiter's offer to have his french fries grilled in truffle oil.

What little time we spent trying to taste the beers on tap went on the wayside when the food arrived (the beers we tried were uninspired, but standard Red Ales and IPAs). My ribeye arrived covered in two varieties of mushrooms, framed by a scoop of mashed potatoes and a pool of worchestershire sauce. I took a picture of my plate, it was that perfectly presented.

As for the taste: the mushrooms were neither canned nor frozen and told you that in a perfect bite, the steak cooked exactly to my specifications and seasoned for a god, the mashed potatoes sublime in every way, and after stealing A's truffle oil fries I realized that this little restaurant couldn't make french fries without changing your religion.

It's hard to walk away from a meal and call it perfect. A and I have tried many different dishes alongside our beer tastings (from Alligator gumbo to homecut and seasoned fries), but this is the first time we used that elusive word: "perfect." Our meals were absolutely perfect.

Couple that with the quiet live music, the calm atmosphere, and the amazing service and this was another jewel on what shaped up to be an amazing trip.

http://www.brasserieportland.com/pages/contact 

Beer like Ferrets?

After sipping on (and thoroughly enjoying) what is a solidly delicious offering from Deschutes Brewery (Red Chair NWPA), J and I had the interesting experience of sampling Widmer's W'11 KGB Russian Imperial Stout. I won't speak for J, who may have had an entirely different experience of this brew, but as for myself:

As a fan of Widmer in general and very impressed with the past incarnations of the "W" series, I was excited to have my taste buds tickled by this latest offering. I was not disappointed; the KGB certainly was a tickler. After presenting itself as a pretty all-around standard Stout, its roasted, malty presence left on a curious note. As its cool, smooth effervescence slid down my gullet, I tasted something furry. Not furry in texture so much as furry in taste -- that distinctly musty flavor distinctive of the scent of fur, particularly wet fur. Now, perhaps this furry flavor was intentional, to remind us of those conspicuously Russian, if not caricatured, fuzzy hats of Siberian traipsing comrades.

Cut to a scene of hard drinking Russians in some hole in the snow refuge from the freezing Siberian winter, their snow encrusted hats melting from the heat of an open fire, à la Indiana Jones and the Raiders Lost Ark. This was not the fur it reminded me of, however. It reminded me of something much less palatable. And what could be less palatable than a damp, furry Russian hat? How about ferrets?

 

Having once owned a ferret, I am thoroughly familiar with the way their particular scent has an uncanny ability to stick in the back of one's nose, almost feeling as though one had tasted it. Perhaps it was this sticking quality that reminded me so inopportunely of ferrets, but a certain underlying mustiness contributed, as well. In the end, I had to laugh. It was quizzical, this taste. I wouldn't call it a bad beer, but not something I would go to frequently, and needless to say, somewhat disappointing considering my high expectations. My taste buds certainly had been tickled, nonetheless.

Brewery of the Month: Silver Moon Brewery (Bend, Oregon)

In a region that brews as much (if not more) beer than Germany, it's always hard to try and put a finger on your favorite brewery. In 2006, we would've sworn up and down that Ninkasi were the reigning geniuses with their Total Domination IPA. Before that, Eugene City Brewery's 100 Meter Ale saturated our hearts. This month, we have to say that we are in love with Silver Moon Brewery and this is the first time we've been in fisticuffs over which beer makes them the best.

J will swear he cried tears a first born son couldn't elicit when he tried their Bourbon Chocolate Stout; A swears the Hoptagon Imperial IPA is the real Eastern Oregon hero. Either way, this is the first time in awhile we were arguing over beers from the same brewery. Simply put, the beers were incredible and stole our hearts at this year's KLCC Microbrew Festival.

However, the appeal of beers is one part the drink, another part the conviviality that surrounds enjoying a new beer. When you fall for a new beer everyone must try it and everyone must hear about how great you think it is. A good drinking experience is dependent on good company. On this account Silver Moon sold us when the company's brewers shot the breeze with us in downtown Eugene.

Walking down to a pub from the Microbrew Fest we stopped at the crosswalk with another pair of guys heading in the same direction. When I asked them if they'd came from the brewfest they told us they were taking a short break. I immediately told them when they got back to try Silver Moon's Bourbon Chocolate Stout. "Then try the Hoptagon," A chipped in, "that was amazing too." The two guys looked at each other and the shorter of the two says "Wow, that's really flattering." When we asked why they pointed to the back of their shirts, "Those are our beers." (after getting home I recognized them from pictures online as Tyler West and Brett Thomas, the brewers of said beers). They talked for a few seconds and confirmed directions downtown then walked ahead of us.

After this we started discussing our next brewing plans and, in particular, our own recipe for a Pumpkin Ale that had turned out almost perfect except for the carbonation. I was debating with A the amount of clove that we needed in a 5 gallon batch when West came back and asked what we were talking about. We told him we were talking about our recipe. He asked about our ingredients then told us "This is the same conversation you have making beer even in a brewery. You'll be debating 'should I use more coriander or will it be too much'." After this they headed on and we gave a standing invitation to meet us at the Horsehead if they had time.

It's one thing to have amazing beers. It's another to stop for a minute and give a couple amateur brewers input on the process. This is why we simply have to put Silver Moon Brewery as our brewery of the month (possibly of the year). Thank you guys, we can't wait to drink whatever you bottle for us.